Waterlust sailing canoe in Norway

spclark · 10 May 2022 4:23 pm

Chuck I’m anxious to know how the rest of your outing went!

And about your lead ballast: did you use what you gleaned ‘as-received’ or did you do some reshaping for your ultimate purpose?

Last w/e I learned of a potential source of lead scrap I can ‘mine’ for ballast, with a little effort added involving first cleaning it of contaminants then smelting & casting.

Martin you may have something to add on this, given your history of projects boat- and car-wise!!

MartinC · 10 May 2022 6:57 pm

Hi all! I am following all of your builds and voyages with great interest.

I don't have too much to add on the question of ballast, as I have decided for my purposes that the 'out of water' weight has to be kept to a minimum. My ballast is therefore confined to water ballast which can be filled and emptied as required when on the water.

My only comment relating to lead smelting and casting is, I am sure, something you all already know. It is extremely toxic so do be very, very careful not to inhale lead fumes or dust, or get it on your skin or clothes! I am not usually overly cautious about these things, but lead really is very nasty.

spclark · 14 May 2022 5:45 pm

Using lead for ballast's my Plan F or G, better to try water first as much as possible for those reasons. Or get by with as little as possible, why I'm bothering with the ama addition.

Getting started with 'glassing 'em today, very pleased with how they're turning out at this point. Experiences with main hull really helped me get up to speed with techniques appropriate for epoxy.

I'm using a different order-of-application than suggested in the build manual for putting 'glass on these things, seems more appropriate & puts all the fairing with a mind to water flowing aft. Also puts some extra layers at points of high stress. With the thinner ply I'm using this may be helpful for keeping 'em together.

I'd intended to weigh 'em before I rolled on the sealer coat earlier this week but got ahead of myself before I realized the opportunity was gone. Will weigh 'em once the 'glassing's complete; curious what you others might see if you try this!

Working towards getting all this ready for an event coming up early next month, been invited to join a local bunch 'convoying' up to Lake Pepin north of where I am. This year it's June 3-5, just two more weekends, getting really close!!

spclark · 29 May 2022 9:50 pm

Two weeks w/o a post from other forumites? You must all be out sailing!!

I'm still at it with the ama + aka stability addition. Got aka saddles positioned last evening, today saw me using both sides of the garage to finagle a nice alignment of the aka in 'em.

Measuring from main hull's bow to the centerpoint of each outboard ama mounting bolt hole I quit fiddling when the numbers came out equal at 96-21/32" (245.51 cm). When time comes (SOON!!) to mount the amas, I'll use the final placement of their inboard bolt holes to finesse getting each ama's bow equidistant from the main hull's bow as per plans.

Looking ahead to next weekend's Messabout leaves me thinking I may be rushing things. And the weather forecast's not as enticing as it was a week ago either. So it may be a bit before I get this new combination launched this season.

Last edited by spclark (30 May 2022 3:48 pm)

spclark · 10 Jun 2022 11:58 pm

My heavens... what a different experience having the amas attached makes! Went out yesterday with the guy who taught me the rudiments of sailing 50 years ago on a smallish 'impoundment' pond an hour's drive away. Beautiful day, nice breeze blowing directly at the boat launch but enough to put an ama into the water up to its deck a few times while we tacked back & forth. Then a slow run down wind to the south end followed by 90 minutes' tacking back to the launch. This was with the main set in midships position, no reefs and him acting as 'movable' ballast while minding the sheet. I simply manned the tiller & hunkered down in the cockpit so I could see under the boom.

I'm so glad I lobbied for the ama kit from CLC after reading Guy's initial posts regarding stability! Where I am, considering my age and sailing skills in general, I'd rarely venture out under sail ever again without the amas attached.

Bottom line is a Waterlust needs ballast first to be practical in pretty much any conditions under sail. Mirage drive is fine if that's all one needs to get enjoyment out of it, but add a sail and you're into advanced skills sailing to keep it upright. Going out solo's my next challenge with the amas attached and the main alone with a reef - maybe two - tied in, and those drive well tanks filled with water.

Need to tighten up the rigging, and the connection between rudder arm & tiller extension. Loose doesn't lend itself to careful adjustments to heading! Maybe add a compass too over 'landmarking' for an aimpoint.

I screwed up not wiping the memory card in my GoPro camera so I have about five minutes' video of the start of our time on the water. Spent an hour trying to get ready at the dock, interrupted several times by fisherpeople wanting to pull their boats out...wasted what storage space had been on that card with junk....

5 minutes from the very start; lots of bow wake noise. Have to do better next time + an empty SD card:

Amas_On

Last edited by spclark (11 Jun 2022 2:05 pm)

MartinC · 12 Jun 2022 5:20 am

Just back from extended holiday so have only just seen your posts SP. Well done!
Lovely job with the Amas!
I agree completely with your third para. After a delayed start to the sailing season, I now hope to do some serious trials with the heavy daggerboard and water ballast in the drive well tanks.
Good sailing!

spclark · 12 Jun 2022 2:23 pm

Thanks Martin! Hope your holiday was enjoyable!

Looking forward to reading / seeing what you discover with your trials!

As for me I'll be limiting my future posts here to replies to others' contributions & questions + updates on my discoveries as I learn better how to navigate with this creature I've created.

Already decided she needs a bow eye, the better to deal with trailer launch & recovery. That's up for today, among other more home-centric activities.

Thanks to all who've contributed, and particularly Bergen Guy for authoring this, now magnum opus-length thread over two years ago.

Last edited by spclark (12 Jun 2022 2:24 pm)

spclark · 16 Jun 2022 12:13 pm

spclark wrote:

...updates on my discoveries....

On that tack I'd like to share (with permission) comments I received from Patrick Rynne, PhD, founder and CEO of the Waterlust.com outfit. I'd queried them last week looking to learn what their experiences had been after they commissioned the project by CLC that brought forth the Waterlust expedition canoe design and then kits.

"So cool to see the amas! After sailing the canoes down the coast, I definitely was craving some more stability. Unless it was really light wind, I couldn't sail the boat while sitting in the seat, and instead sat on the rail or even stood up. I actually found standing up to be some of the most enjoyable sailing on the trip. Still remember this particular day where we had perfect conditions

https://www.instagram.com/p/B-5SGyylZsn/

We kept the boats for a year or so, and then gave them back to CLC because we weren't sailing them much down here in Miami. I believe they sold one of them and kept the other as a demo boat.

So glad folks are enjoying these boats. They are tricky to sail and there is a lot going on with the two sails, but when things are dialed in, they are pretty magical feeling. Hope you have many adventures with it!"

"I've been selling high-performance boats my entire life, including an Olympic campaign in the very unstable 49er class. I will say that without amas, the Waterlust canoe is definitely one of the hardest boats I've ever had to sail in a solid breeze. The super narrow beam, two 2 sail plan with top-heavy rig, and criss-cross tiller extension arrangement makes the entire experience challenging. On our adventure down the intercoastal, I found this challenge extremely invigorating, as I enjoy trying to master sailing a boat that is innately difficult. Others in our group, including my wife who has little dinghy experience, enjoyed that challenge far less ?

So definitely don't attribute the challenge to your age, we had friends in their 20s here in Miami sail the boats for the first time and immediately flipped. It's not an age thing, they are just hard to sail when fully powered up.

A couple years ago our family got a Hobie tandem island with retractable amas. It's a great little boat and the amas made it far easier to sail and relax on. Can bring the dog too (video below)

https://www.instagram.com/p/B98AwZ2F-8E/"

"Yes, absolutely! I'd also add that having the boat fully loaded with camping gear helped. On days we had the storage ports filled (which Dillon designed the boat for), the center of gravity was noticeably lower and the boat was more stable. On days we had little gear in the boat, it was much sportier.

But overall, I'd prefer the boat with amas for long distances where you need to save energy and relax...and I like it as a canoe without amas for short, exciting outings in 5-10 knots that challenge my sailing abilities, or with no rig and just the pedal drive for exploring."

Seems our collective experience mirrors theirs; we're not so crazy after all!

MartinC · 17 Jun 2022 2:53 pm

Thanks SP. Very interesting and comforting to know that it is not just us 'old timers' who found the rig to be challenging!

I have just returned from a sail this morning in 14-18 knots of wind (force 4) on the Norfolk Broads (lake conditions) and although this will only be of academic interest to those of you who have gone down the amas route, this is what I found with my 15kg steel daggerboard and smaller mainsail (equivalent in size to one reef in the mainsail which comes with the kit).

In general it was very manageable and I did the entire 4 hour sail from the pedalling position sitting on the floor on my inflatable canoe seat. At no time did I hike out or raise myself off the seat although it felt as if I should, but I held my nerve and rather than tipping over (which it felt it would), the boat merely rounded up in the gusts. As the wind rose to a steady 18 knots this weather helm became rather tiresome (and tiring on the tilller arm!), so I lowered the mizzen and the boat sailed fantastically well under the mainsail alone. Obviously windward performance was poor like this, but by pedal-sailing to windward I was able to point as high if not higher than the other dinghies out on the water and the downwind experience was stable and exhilarating!

I have still much to learn, particularly about controlling the two sheets and the tiller with only two hands! How do others manage with this? I ended up holding the mizzen sheet in my left hand and the tiller and main sheet in my right, but this resulted in the main sheet being tightened when the tiller is pulled and slackened when the tiller is pushed! Through experimentation I learnt that it is the mizzen which needs most attention (as it is it, rather than the mainsail which will cause the boat to heel in a gust) and although I haven't tried this, I guess the mainsheet could be cleated for much of the time. Next time I have a reasonable breeze, I might put on a wetsuit and push this to the limit.

spclark · 17 Jun 2022 4:55 pm

Wow. Fascinating bit about working mizzen! I’d always held what I’d been told that it ought to be “set & forget” but what you’re suggesting is exact opposite!

Yet the 33 lb d’board you’ve fashioned may be playing a part, eh? With the stock ‘organic’ one the rest of us use, ballasting seems to be mandatory for predictable performance in anything beyond zephyr-like conditions!

I’m taking notes from Patrick’s videos about rigging details. The prototype appears much less complicated; adding reefs & such adds more cordage, as does the mizzen of course. My outing last week proved that windward can be done under main alone but we had it set in the rear main pocket, not the forward one so there’s that to consider.

I’ll be watching for comments from the other regulars here about all this.

MartinC · 18 Jun 2022 8:12 am

Yes. I admit that I mentioned earlier on this forum that the mizzen was a 'set and forget' item, as it had been on my earlier boat which was a much heavier vessel than the Waterlust. You certainly can't cleat the mizzen sheet on a Waterlust!
I am sure there will be a technique for handling the two sheets simultaneously, but I haven't mastered it yet.
I look forward to hearing from Guy or Chuck how they cope with this issue.

I agree with simplifying the rigging to an absolute minimum. In my view, with two sails there is enough going on without having to bother with reefing lines and lazyjacks.

One other mizzen myth I am afraid I am responsible for. I learnt yesterday that 'scandalising' the mizzen doesn't work on a Waterlust in any reasonable amount of wind. If you do this (raising the boom rather than dropping the sail), the wind still gets into the sail and interferes with the handling. There is no alternative to lowing the sail completely, but I found that this is relatively easy by going head to wind, releasing the halyard and downhaul and then pulling in the sheet to bring the boom yard and sail further forward where you can tie the sheet around the whole lot and secure it.

Chuck · 25 Jun 2022 7:15 pm

Waterlusters-

I would say that I treat the mizzen as more set-and-forget. Going upwind, I will adjust the sheet until the helm is neutral and then cleat it, managing puffs by easing the main as needed. Going downwind, I set it approximately, but then might swing it over when gybing, or when there is low wind and I am trying to go wing-on-wing to maximize sail area. Of course, I have been sailing with a two person crew a good portion of the time, making it easier to adjust the mizzen while steering while the forward crew handles the main and moving around to 'trim ballast'.

I've got to say I am also a little glad to hear that the original Waterlusters found this boat to be quite tender, which I would certainly agree with! When I sail alone, I put in 120# of lead, and when I sail with crew I put in 60#. I still find it amazing that a really popular incarnation for this type of boat in its heyday is 16-foot long, with only a 30-inch beam (!), and 100 sq. ft. of sail. That must have been an extraordinarily tender boat!

-Chuck

Last edited by Chuck (25 Jun 2022 7:43 pm)

Chuck · 25 Jun 2022 7:29 pm

Since we have now entered the time of year with perpetually low winds, I can take a bit more time to write here. I've been out traveling quite a bit more in the past month, with a good portion of that going to sailing the Waterlust. I put about 3000 miles on the little Trailex trailer with the small "8 inch" wheels, and am glad that it has held up perfectly so far.

I've previously mentioned my trip to Cedar Key in early May (and I will post more photos soon). After dealing with high winds the first two days (keeping people from sailing), the third day was a steady 10-12 knots and perfect for sailing. I went out for a 15-mile trip to some of the outlying keys, and got about 2-3 miles out from the town at times (nothing between us and Cuba but the Gulf!). The boat handled really well and was a lot of fun! But, as I found out later, the key was the excellent crew (a young guy with competitive collegiate dinghy racing experience):

I went out a couple of weeks later to the CLC Big Little Boat Festival on the Chesapeake Bay and had quite a different experience. My normal crew didn't go on this trip, and I sailed with a local friend with decades of racing experience in 27-foot boats. However, in the first couple of minutes of being out in ~8 knot winds we got closer to capsizing than I ever have been before in this boat, with the gunwale submerged and the water within 1 inch of pouring into the cockpit. After a continuing long stretch of severe rolling, it was clear that we were not going to do the 20-mile race safely out on the Bay the next day. The new crew was not quite as agile shifting weight with the wind, and it made a huge difference in the stability of the boat.

I was hoping to have the amas available for this race, but they still needed a couple of days work when I had to leave for the trip, so it was done without the outrigger kit. Hopefully I will finish it up soon and will experience the same large increase in stability that Guy and SP have written about!

And on the building front, I will post some photos of the system I used to place the chair (not really a better word for it) in a raised and adjustable position for operating the Mirage drive. I hacked it together, but it does work decently well. I think the main issue with the stock cane chair is that it just takes up a lot of room, and is not trivial to move from the installed position to back under the rear deck when under way with crew in the boat. In Cedar Key we sailed two in the boat with the chair installed, and successfully stowed it underway, but it was not easy; a smaller and more clever seat would be much better.

Also still on the building agenda are lazy jacks (I find that I have been sailing reefed quite a bit and would like to be able to do it better on the water), and a rope tiller system running around the cockpit. And of course, there is always the jib to figure out -- with this perpetual low wind it might be just the thing to add for a fun time out! It seems that I am still in the likes-to-pull-lots-of-strings phase, with this boat just more to handle that all the other sailboats I saw at Cedar Key and in Maryland. Of course, it is still a long way from Martin's gaff-rigged topsail boat!

-Chuck

Last edited by Chuck (25 Jun 2022 7:52 pm)

spclark · 25 Jun 2022 7:54 pm

You'll like those amas Chuck! My experience a couple of weeks back with a 150# crew wouldn't have happened without them! We'd have gone over more than once with the conditions we'd gone out in otherwise!

Good numbers on your lead ballasting, thanks! Water's ~ 60 lbs./cu.ft. so there's ample volume in that storage compartment for either water or lead, the latter being rather more in need of a safe and practical plan for obtaining as well as managing both for securing and when not in use. An e-mail earlier from Michael Storer arrived earlier, leading me to his discussions of making DIY dry storage bags using PVC-reinforced fabric, which ought to lend itself to making up a water ballast 'bag'.

There's newer stuff there too of course; the subject of that missive illustrates a clever way to hasten reefing that may be applicable to our crafts.

I've made up some custom ratchet tie-downs that don't have the metal bits at a place that damages my hull. 1" polyester webbing from Sailrite.com is great stuff for this! 100 feet leaves me with ample material that may come in handy for securing whatever ballast I may end up with. After the tie-downs I made up a 'belt' with two stainless D-rings for securing my main mast & aka at the front of the cockpit for trailering, using the aft eyes on the aka saddles. I can envision all kinds of ways to use some of the leftover webbing...

Chuck · 4 Jul 2022 5:37 pm

Hi All-

I finally had a chance to do a capsize test yesterday in the Waterlust. For this test, I took out the sailing gear and put in my normal sailing ballast of 60 pounds of lead attached to the sole of the main storage compartment.

Surprisingly, I found the boat much more difficult to capsize than I expected! Starting from inside the boat, I sat on the side deck and started the boat rolling over. Even with the boat rolled so much that the top deck was completely perpendicular to the water, it still wouldn't fill with water and wanted to roll back to the standard deck up orientation. Finally I tilted it a little past vertical and water started flowing into the cockpit. The boat eventually filled to a water level several inches below the top of the daggerboard housing.

I attempted to get back into the boat on my own with this much water in it and was successful: I floated out to a position perpendicular to the center of the boat with my legs floating behind. I then was able to pull the boat toward me while throwing my body across to the other side, ending up in the cockpit. With one person in the boat, it wasn't very difficult for a second person to hop in the same way. With two people back in the flooded boat, the water level was within 1-2 inches of the top of the daggerboard slot.

One thing I learned from this test was to put a lanyard on my bailers! I wasn't worried about them sinking, but they did manage to float to the very back of the boat where it was almost impossible to get to them with all the boat gear in the way.

I think the lead ballast made a big difference and really helped the boat keep from tipping over initially, as well as making it easier to climb in after the capsize.

Last edited by Chuck (4 Jul 2022 5:42 pm)

spclark · 6 Jul 2022 11:57 am

So this was without masts & spars Chuck? Even bare poles contribute to tipping moment. Still, what you're telling us supports the thinking that this design is more stable once loaded. Either with 'expedition' kit or simply ballasted to lower CG.

I'm working towards a waterproof ballast 'bag' for the storage compartment between mast pockets. Made from vinyl-coated polyester fabric with cemented seams to hold ~ 150 lbs / 68kg, about 3-1/2 cu. ft. max. Materials cost about US $30 & vastly easier than collecting, cleaning, melting lead for casting ballast weights similar to your rolled x-ray shielding stuff. Will be securely strapped into the bottom of the compartment for use, fitted with a small access hatch for filling/emptying by portable pump.

Out of curiosity I did some looking about for what Tungsten slabs would run. Lead runs 0.41 lb/in3, Tungsten's nearly twice that at 0.70. At US $100.00/lb it was an exercise that proved enlightening as well as entirely impractical.

For the time being I'm happy with what adding the amas bring to my experience. I'm curious where you are Chuck with yours? They do make ramp-launching more bothersome, particularly when going out solo. Mike Water's design for "folding" akas had merit but also vastly more complexity over what CLC's designed.

The ballast idea bag I hope might prove a practical enough concept that the amas aren't always warranted when going out under sail.

For now I have to be content with simply thinking about further outings this season; my MINI suffered a failure-to-start yesterday while I was a few miles away from home. With the CANBUS electrics of modern vehicles it's beyond my comprehension or skills to suss out just what's gone wonky. Battery's fine, everything else works, just no starter engagement. Could be a simple sensor, could be wiring problem, something in the ECM, or just a starter that's died. Ought to know more later today.

UPDATE: Mini's back, needed a new starter. Seems (uninsulated after 9-1/2 years) copper braid positive lead between solenoid & starter motor'd gone to dust. And these things aren't at all easy to change out either on this new generation (#2 in my case) of MINI.

Last edited by spclark (18 Jul 2022 12:24 am)

spclark · 18 Jul 2022 12:25 am

I've also decided it's time to do some lead casting.

Culled ~ 300 lbs of shooting range scrap. I've float-cleaned it, now need to visit a local friend who's done this kind of thing before. Standard bread pan to serve as practical ingot mold for five or six slabs around 25 lbs per. Strap 'em down, go sailing again, with - or without - amas. We'll see...

spclark · 28 Jul 2022 11:51 pm

Progress... of sorts.

Visited with local mechanical savant today, came back with two 28 lb 'ingots' we cast from lead+zinc scrap he had on hand -

Relatively safe, low-tech operation as long as it's done OUTSIDE and with precautions taken to prevent accidents...

- which is why I asked him to assist me in this endeavor. Experience pays dividends where mishaps are to be avoided at all costs.

Third's been cast, too hot to handle when it came time to leave. He'll proceed on his own tomorrow for the other three I hope to end with. If a couple are lighter it'll add some flexibility when I go to put them to use.

In time, with increased confidence and improvements in sailing skills, I hope to minimize the need for ballast when amas are left ashore.

Plan is to knock the edges off these bricks then wrap in thin foam, finally a couple of layers of poly-reinforced vinyl I'd acquired to make up a water ballast bag. Then add some internal stringers to secure 1" poly webbing straps, themselves fastened with quick-release plastic buckles. Keep the ballast in place, down low.

Hope you others are well, enjoying your summers' & the activities your Waterlust build makes possible!

spclark · 7 Aug 2022 5:09 pm

Been too hot and/or too windy to get out much, or no wind whatsoever....

So I've been doing some "tuning" to how things are arranged; plan is to speed set-up once at a launch site, make my Waterlust (tomorrow's the 1 year anniversary of her launching) easier to run, safer to operate, more stable under sail.

Last w/e's endeavors gave me the idea of inletting one of the ingots I cast into my daggerboard. Yesterday I used a router to 'thickness' the lightest to what I'd hoped was just under the thickness of the d'board.

Got a little carried away! Could have done w/o last 1/16" pass, gained another half pound maybe? Ended just shy of ten pounds.

Today I routed out a hollow into which that brick will be epoxied:

Once that's done, sides get filled with microballoon+epoxy fairing mix, fair contour to match board then add a layer or two of 2 oz. cloth to keep brick in place. Not nearly the weight of Martin's steel d'board yet I have to believe 9+ pounds centered 20" beneath hull ought to aid sailing stability!

The other ingots (2 @ 17 lbs., 2 @ ~ 27 lbs.) will be cleaned up of sharp edges then fitted to a carrier made from epoxified 1/2" Baltic birch ply that can be inserted into the storage well between mast pockets, the secured. Fitted with web straps & clips to bind up to four ingots before setting out, internally ballasted to reduce need for amas for any but the stiffest of conditions!

Last edited by spclark (7 Aug 2022 5:12 pm)

Chuck · 8 Aug 2022 12:06 am

That's experimentation, SP! I am really curious to see how your new weighted board works out.

It's also been too hot and windless here, as well (unless I want to go out in the daily afternoon squalls!).

My outrigger kit is finished and waiting for the paint and varnish. To connect amas to aka I ended up using a carriage bolt and filing the round holes square to accommodate it. This works well and removes the need for a wrench to hold the end of the bolt when connecting things up, as well as a fender washer on the bottom. We'll have to see how the square hole in the epoxy holds up with use.

Still working on a new rigging plan -- somehow I can't help wanting this boat to point better than a 115 degree tacking angle!

-Chuck

spclark · 8 Aug 2022 12:38 pm

For my amas I elected to bond stainless steel T-nuts to the undersides of the deck 'tabs'. In the same Hillman hardware display I found some lobed knobs that will accept the heads of 5/16" threaded stainless hex-head bolts so no wrench is needed to mount them to the aka. Big stainless fender washer under knob against aka's top, worked well enough the first time to keep using this set-up. Those T-nuts' shanks are about 1/32" longer than the thickness of those tabs so the protruding bit serves nicely as an indexing device when I'm hanging amas off aka ends.

Bonding lead brick into d'board went well yesterday. Now I need to remove excess epoxy from what was underside during bonding, then carve away a bit of the 'glass cloth/epoxy surrounding it so the added 'glass+epoxy covering can go on after I've filled & faired the shallow voids over the brick itself. May add some carbon fiber ribbon over the leading edge too, I don't want to worry about possibly having weakened the d'board any if it encounters an underwater obstruction someday....

trulamila · 10 Aug 2022 11:37 am

interesting information

MartinC · 10 Aug 2022 11:49 am

Well done SP!

I can guarantee that the heavier daggerboard will help. The only thing you have to be very careful of is that as it is not possible to raise the board from a sitting position owing to its length, you have to be very careful when standing to raise the board as the additional weight in the 'wrong' place makes the boat very tippy.

Also, the board takes some lifting and I use a single handed ratchet clamp to hold the board in the half up position. :-

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/clamps/3 … lsrc=aw.ds

spclark · 10 Aug 2022 11:50 am

Welcome to this thread trulamila! If you’ve bought into the Waterlust kit from CLC, or are contemplating making such a move, I trust this forum’s thread will prove to be very enlightening! Questions are welcome!

Good point MartinC, I’ll watch for that. My initial thought is your board’s heavier than mine by quite a bit, and a wet board is slippery when pulled making removal a bit tricky. I’ve never had to stand to withdraw mine so I wonder if the added nine-ish pounds down so low will require this change? Maybe a suitably located hole through it, to accept a tethered dowel pin that would hold it up when necessary might work well? Have to check where one could be placed.

Too I’m wondering about whether my modification will weaken the d’board any should I encounter an underwater obstruction? Plan is to fair the surface back to what it was before the hole was routed, then add a couple layers of ‘glass overlapping an inch or more all’round. Maybe some carbon fiber ribbon as well, on the leading edge under this new ‘glass?

Last edited by spclark (10 Aug 2022 12:02 pm)

Chuck · 12 Aug 2022 4:23 pm

Finally a little bit of wind today (!) after one month+ of nothing but calm and squalls.

Playing hooky from work today to go sailing and try out the outriggers!

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