You are not logged in.
Pages: 1
Offline
Morning who ever you are. Are you phil or paul
What a fantastic finish and a gorgeous boat
Canoe & Kayak Owner
Offline
I am the night shift and not either of them.
The boat was built by a customer who sent in the photograph. It took him a while to get that finish but it looks faultless.
Offline
faultless
Canoe & Kayak Owner
Offline
Hi Richard, thank you for the compliments on my build.
It was well worth all the effort involved due to the quality of the design by John Harris, who in my opinion got it right when he translated the classic skin on frame Greenland kayak into plywood and epoxy. I went to considerable lengths to get the fairing completely symmetrical on the hull.
Offline
A great picture showing perfect symmetry.
What is the secret for getting such a good finish? Well done, Will
DD
Offline
Hi Dinky Doris
The secret (if it is a secret!) is to sand with wet and dry paper between coats and use plenty of water. I start with 400grit and after the 5th coat, I use 1200grit. That's right - 6 coats!
Offline
That is dedication. starting with a smooth surface is best but do you brush or use a roller?
Canoe & Kayak Owner
Offline
I use a foam brush and as little varnish as possible. It is quite easy to get six coats out of a one litre tin of varnish
Offline
...this really looks very nice!...
...do i see correctly that you did the shear-planning before committing to the shape (by applying epoxy)?...
...on the Pax 18 i built last year i put on 5 layers of varnish using (borrowed) professional spray-tools - and used less than half a tin for the whole job on that boat...
Last edited by fairplay (19 Jun 2012 8:12 am)
'...so, how many kayaks do you really need?...' - '...one more!...'
Offline
Hi fairplay, if I understand your question correctly, my answer is that I used a block plane to plane the sheer clamp rails as the very last job before installing the deck panels. I remember it taking several days of patient eyework before I was finally satisfied with the bevelled sweep between bow and stern ...... well worth the effort.
Offline
...hey WillCurwen, thank you for the quick reply!...
...ah! - ok...as i still saw the wires in the stern-parts in the photo in post #5 i thought that you did the work on the sheer-clamp-rails before glueing the boat at all...also the bulkheads (if they are bulkheads that is ) seem not to be glued by then...
'...so, how many kayaks do you really need?...' - '...one more!...'
Offline
Here is a picture of my finished build just a few minutes away from being launched on Cam Loch here in Sutherland UK. This was a couple of weeks ago. Since then, I have been out on the water assessing how the kayak functions as a design, and I am really impressed. Whatever the water or the weather, the kayak seems to know from one moment to the next exactly what to do and how to perform - effortlessly.
Last edited by WillCurwen (7 Aug 2012 9:57 am)
Offline
just spotted the link brilliant and thank you
Canoe & Kayak Owner
Offline
Thanks for this - I am trying to get one as good looking as yours.
Offline
waterwing,
Take your time to let the varnish harden off before wet sanding between coats. Dilute the varnish just a tad with clean white spirit so that it flows properly, and put it on as thin a coat as is possible. Less is best. If you really want a good finish before you start, then more likely this is what you will end up with. A good finish is a lot easier to repair or refurbish too.
Offline
Pages: 1